AUSCC

Individuals keep various kinds of animals for pets. They do so for delight, companionship or just to obtain a sense of responsibility and to care for something. Some pets serve other purposes such as protecting homes and property and getting rid of vermins. Cats, dogs, fish and birds are the most popular pets almost any animal can be a pet providing it is not an endangered species.

One animal that can make a suitable pet is the rabbit. They can be kept in a cage both indoors and outside or left to stray. However, it is advised to keep them indoors where they are safe from predators and severe temperatures. If you are a pet lover and want to own a rabbit you will require a suitable hutch to accommodate it. You can either buy one or make one by yourself. Follow the instructions below to make your own cage that can accommodate up to three rabbits comfortably.

How To Build A Rabbit Hutch

Required Materials:

24” x 96” Chicken wire

2 door hinges

Hook and eye latch

2 sheets ply board 24” x 72” x 3/4 “

8 pieces of 2” x 4” wood that are 8-foot in length

2 1” x 2” boards that are 6-foot in length

Nails

Necessary Tools:

Wire cutter

Pliers

Screwdriver

Hammer

Measuring tape

Handsaw

Instructions:

1.Use the handsaw to cut 4 pieces of 2” x 4” wood to 48” long. Cut 8 pieces 24” long.

2.Use the hammer to nail a 48” piece to 24” piece in the shape of an ‘L’. The boards must be joined so that 4” are left on both the right and left sides of the 24” piece.

3.Nail the end of the 48” piece to the 24” piece.

4.Join another piece of 48” wood to the opposite side of the 24” wood to make a ‘U’.

5.Nail a second piece of 24” wood to the last 2” of the 48” wood to form a rectangular frame.

6.Put the frame on the workbench with one 48” board in front of you while the 24” boards facing away from you.

7.Nail a 24” board to each corner of the frame. The board must point toward the ceiling. Nail the board so that the 4” widths face you from each corner.

8.Nail a 48” board between the 24” board that face you so that the upright rectangle that is facing you will be the same as the one on the workbench.

9.Repeat the same process to the other side.

10.Nail a piece of 24” board on the top of the 24” inch boards that are placed upright.

11.Turn over the structure and do the same repeat.

12.Using handsaw cut two 2-foot square pieces of the plywood.

13.Nail them to the square ends of the cage. Nails should be close to ensure it is secure.

14.Saw a rectangular piece of plywood and nail to cover the back. Cover all sides with ply board.

15.Use wire cutter and cut a piece of the chicken wire and nail it to half the front of the cage.

16.Cut a piece of ply board to the other half and screw the hinges to it and to the cage to make a door.

17.Screw the hook and eye latch to the door.

18.Turn the cage over and nail 48” 2” x 4”s to make the legs.

Tips:

Paint the hutch if you want a more attractive appearance.

Make sure that the legs are the same in length.

Here you can find more tips on how to build a rabbit hutch.

An outhouse is basically a lavatory outdoors. It comprises of a dug out pit over which an enclosure is constructed. Outhouses have changed from the scary hole in the ground that an enclosure was made around. Some individuals will ,however, see the necessity for an outhouse. For example: moving to a nation that doesn’t have the joys of an indoor plumbing system or even having a secluded cabin set up somewhere or at camping grounds may mean it is cost-efficient as well as practical to build your personal outhouse. This guide will give individuals with fundamental structural knowledge to follow the step by step directions to make an outhouse.

How To Build An Outhouse

Planning for constructing the outhouse:

You will require the following:

Shovel

Measuring tape

Picking Out the correct point

An outhouse is required to be be erected 300 feet or greater from water supplies or running water (rivers, lakes, springs etc.) It should also be a low traffic spot for individuals.

Excavation of the Pit

The average size for the pit is a square about 2 feet wide and approximately 5 feet deep. Excavate the pit with the shovel to these specifications monitoring the depth with the tape measure as you dig.

Constructing the Outhouse:

Requisite Tools and Materials

2×4” stock

4×4” corner post

1×4” stock

Nails (nail gun cartridges)

Screws

Roofing paper & shingles

PVC piping and flange

Hammer (nail gun)

Circular saw/table saw

Level

Tape measure

Paper/pencil

Instructions to construct the Outhouse

Step one: Build the Footers and Frames

The outhouse will have three horizontal ribs: one at the base, the second on the seating system and the third to the roof. Make the frames and nail them together.

Use the 2×4 as the feet the outhouse will stand on.

Step two: Posts

Use the 4 4×4 corner posts to complete the outside frame of the box. Drill and bolt the frames to the corner supports.

Step three: Seating

The searing rib will be placed roughly 14” from the ground. The hole of the seat should be rectangular and should measure between 8-10” wide and 18-20” long.

Cut out and place the planks for the seats and then attach them to the framing rib, then attach the seat.

Step four: Walls

If the outhouse is going to be utilized seasonally, one option is to use a canvas wall and attach it to the frame with a roofing line. This way it can be easily removed and transported.

For wooden walls, use 2×4’s nailed to three sides of the frame. The side left open will be the one for the door which will be made next.

Step five: Roof and Door

Outhouses will not necessitate much roofing support. Measure and notch the lower portion of the roof support beams and then fix the more 2×4 planks on top.

For the door, build a Z frame and attach lightweight wood stock to the outside.

Install vertical boards between the upper frame and the base frame. Attach this to the open side of the outhouse using hinges.

Tip and Warning:

1) If you are building an outhouse in your backyard (for a woodwork project) be sure to check local building codes and licenses. If the construction is being done for actual use, check with local land agencies to be sure there are no water sources near.

Here you can find more useful information on how to build an outhouse.

A measuring tape is a instrument used to take the dimensions of an object or area. Tape measures come in diverse sizes and lengths ranging from smaller sizes of three feet or below to over one hundred feet in length. Regardless of the length of the tape measure being used you will typically find them in two kinds which are METRIC or IMPERIAL. The choice is yours to make for either one but most likely the choice will be influenced by what you are measuring or by the country you reside in.

How To Read A Tape Measure

Required Tool

Tape Measure

Required Material

Area or surface to be measured

Instructions

Usage only requires you to pull out the tape and measure what you want and then let go for it to auto-retract or roll it back up manually depending on which type you are using. If it is an imperial or metric tape measure there is no difficulty reading the primary numbers, however, there may be some difficulty reading the notches used for measurements between the numbered measurements. To distinguish between the two, imperial is measured in inches and feet while metric is measured in millimeters and centimeters.

Imperial tape measures are in sequence from one inch to the maximum length of the tape with notches between every number signifying one-sixteenth of an inch. An easy method to read the notches is to think about the measurements out of sixteen at all times and then divide the number by two. So counting the notches at the start of the tape measure we have zero, then one-sixteenth of an inch, then two-sixteenth and so on until you get sixteen-sixteenth, where you would either incessantly divide by two until you have one remaining. Or divide the top sixteen by the bottom because they are multiples of two.

So reading all the notches from zero to one inch you would have 1/16, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, 11/16, 3/4, 13/16, 7/8, 15/16, and 1. Every 12 inches you go up on an imperial tape measure you will most likely see the amount of feet besides the number of inches that you have measured. Because this has been typically standardized but might not be present in all brands of tape measures.

The metric tape measure is a little easier to read than the imperial tape measure as the metric system is made to have all numbers divisible by 10. A comparison would be that the imperial uses inches and parts of an inch and feet; segments of an inch are divided into sixteen, and then twelve inches equal one foot.

With metric 10 millimeters make one centimeter, and then 100 centimeters total a meter; all numbers are divisible by 10 and the notches on a metric tape measure between 0 and 10 as opposed to 16. This means you can easily check for the measurement between zero and one centimeter by counting 0.1, 0.2, 0.3 etc until 0.9 and finally 1.0 centimeters. Any number thereafter would go on 1.1, 1.2 etc until 2.0 centimeters, and the movement would go on along the complete length of the tape measure.

Tip

The imperial and metric standards are completely different, and although in some areas you may be able to convert between the two it is greatly inadvisable. Persons in the auto-mechanics field may say to you that you may be able to find an imperial measurement which matches a metric measurement and vice-versa. However, they will also tell you that the tools used may not fit fully due to juxtaposing the two standards. For best outcomes you must keep to one standard and if you are following a guide in a book or online use the recommended measurements and standard.

Here you can find more information on how to read a tape measure.

Crabs generally seen on a café menu are snow crabs, king crabs, Dungeness crabs, and stone crabs, to name just a few. Snow crabs have recently become famous because they are often served at all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets. They are much simpler to control when it comes to cracking them open and eating the tender flesh inside than other types of crabs. A simple device is all you need to begin on your seafood feast.

How To Eat Snow Crab Legs

Consuming snow crab legs can be difficult at times. Despite its pleasant and super delicious taste and flavor, consuming this delicious dish can be sloppy and difficult at times, especially for those who hardly know and lack the skill to do the job. For this reason, it is but good to know how to consume snow crab legs.

Required Tools & Materials

When individuals understand how to eat snow crab legs, they can easily enjoy and appreciate such a outstanding treat. The tools for this simple job include lemon wedges, which can add an enticing taste to the dish. Likewise, melted butter also goes well with such tasty treat. Furthermore, pick out hard to reach meat of crab using a fork or crab pick.

Instructions:

1.Pull one of the legs off the bunch; you will realize it is made up of two joints. Fold at the joint and pull apart slowly. If you are lucky, the meat will come out of the foot through the joint. This works really well with the fingers. Squeeze the lemon onto the meat and dip in the butter. Eat the crab meat.

2.Crack the shell on one part of the leg nearby a joint. Don’t crush it; just crack it. Bend and pull it apart. The meat must come out in one large piece. Repeat lemon and butter.

3.Use a crab tool or a crab fork to get any meat that is stuck in the shell. Press on lemon and dip in butter.

4.Squeeze on finished, use a pre-moistened hand wipe until you can get to a sink and wash your hands.

Tips & Warnings:

People can use fork in place of crab tool. After enjoying the dish, cleaning is very essential. Take out the crab flavor off your hands by using hand towel or any brand of hand wipe. More essentially, go to the sink and then wash the flavor off your hands employing water and soap.

Consuming crab legs can truly be messy. At times, the flavor sticks right into the hands. After enjoying such super fine and tasty treat, clean your hands using a hand wipe. If there is none available, ordinary tissue will do. If there is a pot simply wash hands properly with soap and water.

If you are feeling adventurous, or merely searching for a way to keep a few bucks each month, an option you might have debated doing is cutting your own hair. With the cost of Beauty Salons increasing, you can discover that you’re now paying up to $200 to get your hair cut and possibly even more to get it professionally done.

Acting as your own stylist involves the appropriate instruments and some amount of commitment before you get it right and will be hard depending on the current length of your hair and the way you wish to cut your hair. If you are honestly afraid of doing damage, its best to get your hair cut at a salon then do the maintenance yourself for the subsequent months. If you are set to plunge head first into cutting your own hair, this guide will assistance. Always remember: Hair grows back, and in case of mistakes, wear a hat!

How To Cut Your Own Hair

Required tools/materials:

1. Sharp scissors

2. Two mirrors (Hand mirror and a wall mounted mirror)

3. Combs, Brush

4. Shampoo/ Conditioner and detangler (If needed)

5. Towels

6. Old t-shirt

7. News Paper / Garbage bag

Instructions:

Step one:

Wash hair well and condition well. Use detangler if you have thick or curly hair to make drying and combing out easier.

Step two:

Dry hair thoroughly using a towel or blow dryer.

Step three:

Open news paper or garbage bag on the floor of the bathroom and put on the old t-shirt.

Step four:

Decide on the length of your style and use a feature as marker. For example, chin length, shoulder length just below the ears etc.

Step five:

For an straight cut: comb your hair out and let it settle as naturally as possible. Separate hair into 3 segments getting a center part that stops in the center of your scalp and then a part that runs from ear to ear.

Step six:

Cut one side at a time, parting the hair into small sections cutting and then coordinating small strands with the length that was cut previously. Continue this on the other side and for the back, using the mounted mirror and handheld to see your progress.

Step seven:

For an at-home layered look: comb all your hair forward and then slowly cut a exact line across the ends. The hair closest to your brow will be the lowest and will growth in length as it progresses towards the back. This cut will conceal mistakes the best when cutting your own hair.

Tips and Warnings:

1. Always use very sharp scissors or professional hair stylist scissors as a dull pair will cause split ends

2. Do not cut your hair when it is wet. This is particularly true if you have kinky and thick hair. Hairstylists can predict how damp hair dries but if you don t have any previous experience there s a greater possibility that your style will be off.

3. Keep combing through your hair as you cut, this way there won t be faults caused by tangled areas

4. Persons with extremely kinky hair may wish to flat iron or otherwise straighten their hair before cutting

5. Be ready to pay to have your cut adjusted the first time you cut your hair yourself.

6. Get assistance: If you desire an super short cut, it will get intricate once you reach the back of your head. Ask a friend or family member for assistance in these areas if you’re having difficulty reaching or unable to see clearly with both mirrors.

7. Always remember that hair grows back so don t worry about it if your style doesn’t come out perfectly.

Here’s more tips on how to cut your own hair.

Leather is stylish, trendy and gives off a refined look. It makes you feel confident when wearing, as a matter of fact all eyes are on you. For those who love to be a bragger, leather works perfectly in achieving just that because it is dear and looks just as good when worn. Leather is a form of material that is created by way of the tanning of animal rawhide and skin, especially cattle hide. It is a very durable material that is utilized to create a wide range of products nowadays. Leather has affected our lives in one way or another through the many commodities we use including clothing, vehicles, books, furniture, accessories and many more.

Usually, leathers get soiled, blemished or loses its shine at some time. The technique how to clean leather depends on the type of leather and the type of soil. There are leather shops that specialize in restoring leather and making it look brand new again by cleaning to restore its shine. Not everytime we want to take our personal items to a commercial shop to be repaired when there is a way to do it by ourselves and leather can certainly be cleaned at home without difficulties. So the next time your leather needs to be awakened by cleaning, here’s the secret to restoring its beauty:

How To Clean Leather

FOR FINISHED LEATHER:

Required Materials:

2 pieces of soft cloth

mild detergent

Small towel

Leather conditioner

Instructions:

1. Use a mild detergent to work up a light lather on a soft damp cloth.

2. Rub the cloth over the leather object but avoid putting too much water on it during the procedure.

3. Use another piece of soft damp cloth to wipe away the lather from the item.

4. Rub the item with the small dry towel then polish with leather conditioner after the article is totally dried.

FOR UNFINISHED LEATHER

Necessary Materials:

Leather preservative

Soft cloth

Saddle soap

Instructions:

1. Use the soft cloth to rub the saddle soap onto the leather item and create a light lather.

2. Wash the cloth and wipe away the lather. Leave to dry.

3. Oil the leather with a leather preservative.

HANDLING MILDEW

Required Materials:

1 Cup rubbing alcohol

1 cup water

A soft cloth

Instructions:

1. Mix the water and alcohol.

2. Moisten the cloth with the mixture and use it to wipe the area with the mildew.

3. Leave to dry.

REMOVING INK

Necessary Materials:

Hair spray

Soft cloth

Instructions:

1. Spray the hair spray directly onto the ink mark.

2. Use the soft cloth to wipe off the hair spray. Leave to dry.

FOR GRASS STAINS

Necessary Materials:

1 cup water

Moisturizing soap

Soft cloth

Two pieces of soft cloth

Directions:

1. Combine the water and the soap together.

2. Damp the soft cloth with the mixture.

3. Rub the stained area using circular strokes.

4. Use the next piece of cloth moistened with water to wipe the object clean. Allow to dry.

GETTING RID OF SPOTS

Required Materials:

Cream of tartar

Lemon juice

Soft piece of cloth

Instructions:

1. Mix 1 part lemon juice to 1 part cream of tartar to form a paste.

2. Using the soft piece of cloth, work the paste into the area where spots are.

3. Clean off the paste with the cloth.

4. If the spots are still evident, leave for a few hours then repeat the procedure.

Tips:

Always try the cleaning products on a small part of the leather before applying to the whole item.

Do not use products like mink oil, shoe polish and waxes to clean leather furniture or clothing.

In the past DVD’s were speicifcally utilized just for watching movies with a DVD player, however, it is now widely used as a storage device for saving different computer files. Individuals who use computer systems very often for their jobs or personal duties, transfer thousands of invaluable information on their computers form day to day that at some point needs to be saved to another place if the hard drives space goes down, the computer crashes or malfunction. There are those who still take comfort in watching videos from their DVD players, who might need to create duplicates of all their favorite movies. With so much uses for a DVD disc, the disc may move around a lot which cause the DVD to get scratched or dirty which makes it difficult for the computer or DVD player to transfer its contents and so the disc will have to be cleaned. There are many different method(s) for cleaning a DVD, that are effective which this article will look into.

How To Clean DVDs

Required Tools:

Soft cloth or rag

Required Materials:

DVD

Rubbing Alcohol

Water

Instructions are as follows:

1. You can try cleaning the DVD disc by using a soft cloth or a microfiber cloth without the use of any cleaning solution to start wiping it off. Just start cleaning from the middle of the disc and wipe straight out towards the edges. This practice will help to prevent the scratches from affecting the performance or the contents from being read.

2. Rubbing alcohol can be mixed with water to formulate a cleaning agent for the DVD. Create the mixture with the same amounts of alcohol and water. Then moisten the cloth with the cleaning agent and wipe off the disc. This will take out any kind of stain or fingerprints and the solution dissolves very rapidly without leaving any residue.

3. Window cleaner is also a great solution for cleaning DVD disc. Just put some glass cleaner onto a soft cloth and then use the rag to wipe the DVD. This is particularly helpful if you are attempting to get off sticky substances like soda from off the DVD.

4. Toothpaste can also be used on the surface to take out small scratches. All you need to do is just mildly add a dab of the abrasive toothpaste to the scratched area and apply a little water to buff it out.

Tips and Warnings

*Whenever you have done using a DVD, practice to place it back into the case or DVD pouch after using them. When the disc is exposed it is at risk of being placed on a coarse surface that can destroy it and cause you to lose information. Keep DVD disc away from constant sunlight, heaters, radiators or any other spot that produces lots of heat because the heat can cause damage.

*Whenever you are handling a DVD disc avoid touching the surface of the DVD and instead hold it from the center or around the edges. Whenever you come in contact with the surface of the disc, oil from the skin smear the surface and leave back smudges and fingerprints.

*Never clean a DVD disc by wiping it in a non-radial back and forth motion, moving from the center hole to the outer edge and when wiping try to be as mild as possible.

*Microfiber cloths work very well for wiping off DVD’s because the tight weave of the cloth, attracts the dust which helps to keep it from scratching the surface of the DVD. Also try to avoid the cleaning solutions that contain acids as an ingredient.

A Pole Barn is a wood framed building that is erected with poles to sustain the walls of the structure and the roof. The name ‘pole barn’ was originally used to refer to structures constructed for agricultural reasons like accommodating livestock or storing hay and other feed. Pole barns can be used for a variety of purposes but agricultural. Owning one means having added space to utilize. They can also be used as a garage for recreational or off-road vehicles or storeroom for tools and other garden equipment. There are many ways that pole barns can be erected. It all depends on what you desire and what purpose the pole barn will serve.

Pole barns are very simple to erect and need little knowledge and experience. In fact, there are kits accessible nowadays to make the job much easier. So if you need a pole barn but do not want to bear the trouble of erecting one, then this is the most appropriate option for you. These kits include everything – from simple screws to roofing materials – to construct a pole barn from scratch. Some can be constructed by using metal and wood or using just one of the two. They may have simple dirt floor or concrete floor based on the user’s preferences. The benefits of a pole barn are that it can be built in no time and it is cheap to construct.

In order to construct a pole barn it is crucial that you choose an area that is ideal for the building. That is, one that is flat and has proper drainage so that water is not retained.

How To Build A Pole Barn

Here are the instructions to construct a pole barn:

Required Materials:

Pre-mixed concrete (sufficient to fill four post holes)

Four poles

Roof trusses

Tin roofing sections

Rope

Roofing nails

2” x 4” lumber

Roofing screws

Required Tools

Post hole digger

Hammer

Drill with attachment to screw in screws

Instructions:

1.Use the post hole digger to dig four holes spacing them carefully according to the size of the chosen shed. Holes must be dug at least 16 inches deep.

2.Position a pole in each hole and fill with the concrete for extra reinforcement. Modify the poles to ensure that they are straight and firm.

3.Affix the 2” x 4” lumber to the tops of the poles and affix them securely. They must be well strong so as to support the weight of the roof and the trusses.

4.Install the roof trusses. Attach the first truss by using the rope to tie it in position.

5.Nail 2” x 4” lumber onto the outward border of those that were attached to the tops of the poles. This will aid in supporting the weight of the trusses.

6.Using the drill and roofing screws, screw the tin roofing sections to the roof. Intersect sections of the tin sheeting so that additional resistance against climate conditions is assured.

And that is how to build a pole barn.

Tips:

If the ground is wet, widen and deepen the holes to make sure they are kept in place.

It is a good suggestion to use 8-foot sections if you choose to purchase industrial lumber. This is because the 8-foot lengths are cheaper to use.

Be certain that the tin roofing sections are corrugated.

Some individuals choose to use walls around their barns. If you want to add walls, you can use ply board to do so.

The deck on a house is a floored area that extends from the house and is usually roofless. It can be located at the rear, the front or to the side of the house. Deck railings give a deck it’s design and distinctiveness and are very crucial in keeping persons protected in that, they are both practical and decorative. In being decorative, they are eye-catching components adding design to a house and are practical as they increase safety. It is usually essential for decks that are higher than thirty inches above the ground and also for stairs that consist of five or over steps. The height of a deck railing normally varies between thirty and forty inches although special places have special constraints. General ‘builder deck’ railings are the simplest types to make and set up.

Deck railings include a top rail and a bottom rail, side rails and may also comprise bulging posts, balusters and hand rails. They come in a variety of designs and can be made from various materials including iron, aluminum, natural timber, wood composite materials and also transparent glass. They are easily available, but believe it or not, you can make a deck railing on our own. Are you curious? Here’s how:

How To Build Deck Railings

Materials Necessary:

2 x 2 inches wood

Carriage bolts

2 x 4 inches wood

2 x 6 inches wood

Galvanized screws

1 can varnish stain

Tools Required:

Wood saw

Electric drill

Screwdriver

Paintbrush

Knife

Instructions:

1. Remove any wood or material that is connected to the deck so that you will find the rim joist which is the outermost section of the flooring.

2. Use 2 x 6 inches wood to make the upper railing and join it for the time being to the deck by using a screwdriver and galvanized screws.

3. Using your wood saw cut the 2 x 2 inches wood to the appropriate height for the spindles.

4. Use the electric drill and make two holes into every spindle. One hole must be drilled about 1 ½ inches from the bottom of the deck. The next hole must be made 1 ½ inches from the top and the outside of the deck. These holes must be smaller than the carriage bolts.

5. For strength and stability, bolt the spindles into position with the carriage bolts.

6. Cut the 2 x 4 inches wood with the saw to the correct lengths to build spindles. Be certain that they are equal lengths since any error will be visible.

7. Using your screwdriver, attach the pieces you cut to each spindle using the galvanized screws.

8. Permanently screw the railings to the deck at this stage. Screw through the bottom to raise the railing.

9. Use knife to pry open the tin of varnish stain.

10. Take paintbrush and slightly dip it into the tin of varnish stain to take in a small amount.

11. Paint the railings by applying even strokes with the paintbrush and continue until the whole railing is finished.

Tips and warnings:

Always design your deck railings in compliance with policies governing them in your region.

Spindles should be spaced no more than nine inches away from each other for safety.

Carefully measure at every step to get a look that is as professional as possible.

Painting or staining the wood seals it to make it more long-lasting.

The railing should be about 4 inches high but allow extra length so that it flushes with the bottom outside section of the deck.

The steps leading to the deck must be in position to give easy access to the deck.

Choose a railing style that suits is within your means and blends with the design of your house.

Here’s more information on How to build deck railings.

A ballista is a very old kind of crossbow which was used in times of combat by mostly the Greeks & Romans. The ballista functions by propelling heavy darts or stones to damage the enemy. Persons carry out projects on ancient societies which might require them to feature certain objects from the Greeks and Romans, in such instances the ballista may be needed for a presentation. These tools may also be used in screenplays and movies that display ancient times while for others this feet might just be to open up a creative enlightenment by attempting to make objects that symbolize antiquity. You can make a ballista by purchase a ballista-making kit but it is much more fulfilling to construct one by yourself from scratch with all the materials and equipment. This will allow you to expand on your resourcefulness as well as relive a situation of the early days of conflict.

How To Build A Ballista

Required Tools:

Hammer

Measuring tape

Required Materials:

Thin rope

Piece of strong nylon

Nails

2 washers

2 hoop hooks

Wooden block 12” high and 12” wide, 24” long; the base

Block of wood 3”x3”x12”

Block of wood 2” x 2” x 24”

2 blocks of wood 2” x ¼’’ x 12”

2 – 2” cubes of wood

1 length of wood about the same size as a standard pencil

2 wooden cylinders approximately 2” diameter and 2” long

2 – 2” long poles made of metal

Instructions are as follows:

1. First you need to construct the bottom section of the ballista. Place it onto the work table and line up the 3 inch block of wood to the 12 inch edge of the base and connect both pieces of wood together using the nail and hammer.

2. Now position the block so that it is resting with the 3 inch block on the bottom then use the nail to attach the 2’x24” section of wood to the top middle section of the base.

3. Use the hammer and nail to connect the first 2”x12” piece of wood to the 24 inch piece so that both pieces form a T.

4. Place the 2 cubes of wood between the horizontal wood of the T-shaped design. These pieces should be nailed about three inches from where the two parts connect.

5. Place the left over 2”x12” section of wood atop of these cubes. Put a single nail into this wood, then into the blocks, then into the first 2”x12” piece.

6. Put both wooden cylinders on whichever side of the horizontal ends of the T shape.

7. Put a washer on each end of the horizontal bar of the T, about 3 inches apart from each end. Nail them in place.

8. Attach a hoop hook between your wooden cube and the wooden cylinder on the inner section of the horizontal piece of the T. then place in the rope into each hook, and start to wind the rope. When you have twisted it halfway up the length of the rope, wind the pencil-like piece of wood into the rope, then tighten it securely around the wood.

9. Place the rope through the wood and through the washer. Place your metal pole atop the hole in the washer so that it settles in a horizontal plane. Knot the ropes and lock them to the poles and cut off the other ends of the rope. Connect each of the ends of the nylon or rubber to the pencil-like portion of wood.

Tips and Warnings

* If you are deciding to use the ballista only do it in a well open area, and never inside. Make sure that there are no humans or animals near by.

* Try out different objects to see which goes the farthest or produces the most impact.

Read here for more information on how to build a ballista