Archive for the ‘home improvement – DIY’ Category

Just Do It – Build Your Own Porch!

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The front of a house seems incomplete without a veranda. In the back of your house, it can be a fantastic setting for private parties. It’s also a good place to relax after a long hard day.

Those who wish to capitalize on their power tools and carpentry skills may be interested to know how to build a porch. First, though, check if any building permits are needed and that your plans comply with local building codes. Building even an open, unscreened porch may require a permit as it is considered an extension or add-on to your house.

One of the first things to install is the footing, or posting. This supports the entire veranda and attaches it to the ground (naturally) and must be done well for good results. An easy way to determine where the posts should be located is to mark off the boundaries of your intended porch. All that needs to be done next is to dig down to the frost level; about 12 inches across for each post and pour the concrete.

One way to put in a post is to first place the post in the hole and pack dirt around it before setting it in concrete. The other involves first pouring about 8 inches of concrete in the hole, leaving it to set for a day before inserting the post. The next 2 inches are filled with rounded gravel before the rest is topped off with concrete. All concrete must be left 24 hours to dry before proceeding further.

Ledger boards are attached to the house before the deck is completely built. Usually, 2′ x 10′ boards are nailed directly onto the sill about 4 inches under the door and provide more support for the veranda. Subsequently, joists can be attached via joist-hangers that are attached to the ledger board with galvanized screws. Beams are installed atop the joists, followed by the decking material of your choice. Always use pressure-treated lumber that has been treated to be weather-resistant.

The railing you install as a final touch can be build from a railing kit obtainable from hardware stores. Once again, you are required to comply with safety standards set forth by local building codes. Now you no need to search for a carpenter for building a porch, you yourself can build a beautiful porch.

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June 26th, 2010 at 7:07 am

Get a Head Start on the Holidays – Build Your Own Deck Chair

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Nothing screams vacation like a blue and white striped folding chair. It isn’t very difficult learning how to build a deck chair; you just need a bit of diligence and the time to learn how to do so. By building your own chair, you can use your own specific set of measurements and any fabric of your choice!

Basically, a deck chair comprises of two rectangles, the smaller of which is usually narrower than the larger one by 2.5 inches. Another part of a folding chair is a U-shaped piece, usually 14 inches long and the same width as the large rectangle. The type wood to use is usually hardwood like birch or maple in 1″ x 1″ dimensions, as these woods are strong and sturdy.

To form the frame of the chair, first cut 4 pieces to form the large rectangle as based on your measurements. Drill two holes sideways at either end of the longer pieces approximately a foot from each edge. Next, nail the rectangle together.

Cut out the pieces for the small rectangle. This time, drill one hole in each of the longer pieces a foot from one end, sideways, and 8 inches from the other end, from the top, respectively. After that, the rectangle is nailed together like the first one.

Before nailing the U-shaped piece together, you will have to drill 2 holes 1.5 inches away from the end of the two longer sides. All the wooden parts should be sanded down, stained or painted before assembly.

While waiting for the paint or stain to dry, assemble the canvas seat. Hem the fabric, which should have been measured and cut to requirements with a 0.25 inch hem. Sew on 3 large, durable buttons onto both ends of the fabric 2.5 inches from the edge. The buttonholes for these buttons should be placed on the edge of the fabric itself.

To assemble the deck chair, bolt the two rectangles together at the holes drilled 1 foot from the end. The ends of the U-shaped piece are bolted onto the open ends of the large rectangle. Fit the horizontal part of the U-shaped piece into the corresponding notches in the small rectangle. Finally, button one edge of the canvas to the edge of the small rectangle and the other to the edge of the large rectangle.

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June 26th, 2010 at 4:52 am

Do It Yourself – Repair a Washing Machine

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Fixing a washing machine may depend on what issues you are having. Some problems are minor and need just a bit of tinkering while others will possibly need replacement parts and/or the services of a certified repair man. A few of these issues that may arise are shown here with guidelines on how to approach repairs.

Required Materials

Replacement Parts (if needed)



Required Tools


Blow Dryer


These instructions are based on each individual issue you may encounter when your machine goes awry.

For a dead machine that makes a low humming sound perform a few checks. Check to see that the hot and cold water supply lines are on. It is not impossible for the top of the pipe to maintain the on position but not necessarily be on from the shaft. Therefore you will need to unscrew the pipe line using a pliers and check to see that the shaft is actually turned in the right direction. If it is fine then check your inlet hoses, they may be clogged up from debris or frozen because of the weather conditions. If it is blocked you may try to unblock it by unscrewing the hoses and flushing them with a big gush of water, or by blowing air threw them. For frozen pipes you can possiblyslowly defrost them with a drier however, this effect will not last long if it is still very cold.

If the drum is not rotating, this may signal: a broken belt, a jammed machine as a result of an article clothing being caught in a specific section or motor issues. If it occurs because of a belt or motor issue you may have to get parts and replace them, it is best you let a professional examine the machine if this is the case. For a jammed machine inspect it properly and meticulously remove any articles of clothing you may discover in the particular area.

If the door will not open this could be the result of water still left in the machine, most times this is the case. Do not attempt to force the door open, rather have a professional look on the machine to make sure you do not accidentally damage any parts. If you have the skills needed to pump out the water yourself and the door is still closed this could indicate that the actual electrical interlocking system has deteriorated. In this case you will definitely need a professional to look on the extent of the damage.

In circumstances where there is flooding or overfilling the first thing your will need to do is check that your drain is not blocked. If it is you will have to manually clear the drain by removing any debris from it. However, if the drain is working properly then you will have to check the control system to see that the fill levels are functioning perfectly. If they are not functioning properly call a repairman to have this problem repaired, it is not likely that you will be able to alter these levels yourself.

If there is smoke in the drums this could signal a problem with the control system or fill level. Basically the heater may have come on without there being any water within the drum. Turn off the machine instantly and do not try to tinker with this issue yourself instead get a repair man to check it for you. If your machine starts working on its own still have a professional look at it just to be sure that it will not occur once more.

If the fuse blows, don’t be prompted simply to just change it this could signal a serious problem with your electrical wiring. Typically the machine should be placed on its own breaker, when this is not the case it may disrupt the normal flow of electricity to other parts of your home, hence it is important to have a qualified electrician look on your machine to avoid constant replacing of the fuse, or more unthinkable, an electrical fire.

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June 25th, 2010 at 7:20 am

How to Install an Above Ground Pool?

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Installing an above ground pool is a much more affordable choice than building a regular below ground pool. These pools come pre-made and ready to be put in right from the warehouse. Most people may opt to consult a professional, however, there are others who would like to get totally immersed in the installation phase. It is not very hard to accomplish, although getting the help of someone else will ensure you will spend less time installing the pool.

Before you even begin, you should read the instructions and directions that come with your pool. There may be small details that will be intrinsic to each design and pool system therefore overlooking these may be detrimental to the completed project. Once you have truly fathomed all the things that must be done, then you can use this guide as a supplementary aid in the basic installation of your pool. However, if you find that you are unable to solely follow these written instructions, then referring to a video guide may also be helpful.

How To Install An Above Ground Pool

Required Materials

Pre-fabricated Pool
Gorilla Pad
Patio Stones
Required Tools


To begin you will have to level the ground. This is the most important step of the process as you cannot hope to level the ground once your pool has been set up. Hence you will have to make the necessary preparations. These include, shovelling the area and making it ready for your concrete. Preparing your concrete. Putting a layer of sand on your previously shovelled ground. Pouring the concrete over this space and then placing patios sized stones as levelers to erect your pool frame. Basically, shovel, mix concrete, lay sand, pour over concrete, put in patios sized stones and let set. Once you do this correctly you are already ¼ of the way there. Assistance at this point would be great. Additionally use a level once the layer has dried to make certain that it is indeed level, if it is not, you will have to make minor adjustments like pouring more concrete or chipping down what has already been laid.
It is a great idea for you to install a bit of gorilla pad. This will lengthen the longevity of your pool’s lining. It is made out of an especially durable material which will protect your pool from common elements including rocks, grass and weeds. It is basically resistant to destruction from sharp objects. This padding will undeniably act like a cushioning for your pool. If your pool does not come pre-made with this type of padding, then obtain your own and cut it to fit the bottom section of your pool.

Set up your track and inner walls utilizing the manufacturer’s directions. At this point your drill, bolts and screws will become necessary to the process. You may install some coving which will make installing the liner an easier task and will also protect the liner as well. The coving will lower the likelihood that the metal in the pool will corrode. When contrasted to sand or dirt, cove will not be washed off and will not allow the metal to be tarnished by extra moisture.

After you may install your vinyl liner. Let it attach completely to the pool by allowing the sun to totally penetrate it, you may oblige this process for an entire day and hold off filling your pool with water until the following day.
The final part of installation includes filling the pool with water and constructing your pump and filtration system.

Your pool can then be used once all these things are put in place. However, wait a couple hours after you have put in the chlorine as this will be very harsh on the eyes. As always ensure that small children do not swim alone, and possibly consider getting a covering to stop pesky leaves and other forms of debris from entering in your pool. Have fun and enjoy.

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June 21st, 2010 at 4:43 am

How to Build a Closet

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If you have storage issues installing a closet is a good way of dealing with this problem. In numerous instances you can make an existing closet more useful by putting in additional shelves and rods. However, even in a place which had no closet previously, building a closet is pretty easy so if you opt to build a closet, here is a basic guide for helping you with it. We’ll suppose that you already have walls for your closet and the closet itself is all you need to install. Here is what you will require:

How To Build A Closet

Required Tools

Nail gun

Air compressor


Stud finder

Tape measure


Chop saw

Required Materials

Closet Materials

1½-2 inch brad nails

1×4 boards

1¼ inch brad nails

Rod holders


Closet rod

Rod support brackets


Initially utilize the tape measure to see how much space you have for the closet. Decide how many shelves you will need, how much rods for clothes, how much door will be needed, the movement of the door, and how much and what sort of supplies you will use to build the closet.

Utilize the chalk or pencil to trace the outline of the closet on the wall where the closet will be so that you have a rough idea of how everything will be placed and fit together. Use the stud finder to locate where the studs are in the wall and mark them with the chalk so you can easily locate them later on.

With the chop saw, incise your closet materials to the necessary length and then proceed to insert the compressor and nail gun. Load the nail gun with the brad nails and you are set to go. Begin by putting up the 1×4 boards and nailing them into the studs that were previously marked. Cut the shelving material you bought for the closet to fit the design you chose and use the 1¼ inch nails to attach them to the 1×4 stringers you joined to the walls.

Now use the drill to screw the rod holders into the 1×4 side stringers and then sever the closet rod if necessary to get it to hold and put it into the rod holders. It will act as a support for the closet shelves and rods. Then employ the drill and 1½ inch screws to put up the rod support brackets a maximum of 3 feet apart; all that is left now is to put in the various shelves and your new closet is set for use.

As far as the door goes, use drywall to cover the area above where the door will be and then attach whichever door you choose.


Sliding doors or outward swinging doors are best as swinging doors. Since it may be difficult to open when all the shelves and your garments are installed.

Apply putty to fill out any uneven spots when you are done.

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June 21st, 2010 at 2:23 am

How to Measure for Replacement Windows?

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There is a time when it may become necessary to replace your current windows. Quite likely this need may stem from having windows that are damaged from constant exposure to the elements. However, there are other times where this seems essential as a result of a need to change your homes appearance. There are many kinds of windows that may be used in the current space. You may opt to go for sliding windows, louvred windows, hooper windows, traditional French windows, double hung windows et al. Additionally you may choose a variety of materials that may add longevity and or a more traditional look to your windows. The main materials you can use are inclusive of: aluminium, fibreglass, vinyl, wood and fibrex. Although aluminium will be relatively inexpensive, it is better for warmer climates where heat loss is not a problem, vinyl is a better option if you reside in a colder climate as is wood with the exception that wood windows require more maintenance in the form of occasional paintings. Fibreglass is an expensive option but still very durable and the best option for temperate climates. Fibrex is also a wonderful option as it gives you the durability of wood combined with the reduced maintenance needs of vinyl and reliable energy efficiency. If the windows you will be installing are highly energy efficient you may get rebates from your electric supplier. Taking these measurements yourself is not that difficult to accomplish, however, you will need to maintain accuracy throughout to ensure your windows will fit.

How To Measure For Replacement Windows

Required Materials

Paper (to jot down each measurement)

Required Tools

Measuring Tape



You know how to measure for replacement windows? Your windows will need to be measured for height width, level and square. If you are performing your measurements simply to get an estimate, then height and width dimensions are enough. To do this take your measuring tape and measure both sides of your window’s length, (just in case there is a slight discrepancy) and also measure the middle of your window. Then write down the three measurements, if they are the same, (which they often are, may only off by a centimetre at best), only one height measurement will be needed, if they are off then use the shortest height measurement for an approximation. Then get your measuring tape and measure the width of your window at all times maintaining accuracy by putting the measuring tape from end to end of your window. Get some assistance if the windows are large or if you would prefer a second opinion. This kind of measurement will be perfect for vinyl, aluminium and steel windows, but only for estimate purposes as said previously.

It should be noted that you will need to jot down your measurements with the width measurement first, then the height the measurement in relation to the custom that most businesses will use. If you do it the other way around without labelling clearly height and width measurements your newly fabricated windows will not fit. If you are measuring for wooden windows, your correctness may be off by a few centimetres and still work because these windows may be altered to fit the area by sanding.


It is crucial that you measure the window sections acurately, especially if you are getting vinyl replacements that are entirely made to fit the measurements that you give the supplier. Aim to be exact and you will have very few issues.

Consider measuring your windows more than one time, do the same area at least three times at separate periods to improve accuracy, try to make it correct right down to the smallest marking on your measuring tape. Therefore even if you get a decimal in your final measurement at least you will know your windows will fit.

How To Measure For Replacement Windows

Measure For Replacement Windows

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June 21st, 2010 at 1:22 am

How to Build a Tree House?

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How to build a tree house

A tree house can be a wonderful way to acquire additional play space for children or may even be utilized as an entertaining space for adults in some cases. The look of your tree house can be modified to suit either objective. Your main goal should be to aim for durability, stability and then comeliness. When you utilize the right materials your child’s cosy space to himself or your nature lover’s leisure spot can be moulded to suit your needs adequately. Once you have made your sturdy structure, you may put in a couple finishing touches to make it even more inviting. Ultimately this should become an outdoor retreat that may very well have for a few decades or more once it is maintained effectively.Before building a tree house, finding the appropriate plan and the right tree will be the first two elements you should consider before starting this project. You will also be more successful if you acquire the help of a couple friends. You may have great fun undertaking this project and you will certainly see your triumph in full bloom once the tree house is ready to be used.

How To Build A Tree House

Required Materials


Galvanized Screws

Concrete (cement, sand and gravel)

Gravel Base


Required Tools



Post-hole digger




1.To begin get your second frame board and erect it. Then brace it for additional support. Then you will have to drop a plum bob from the board to the ground this will distinguish the area where you will place the first post hole. Create a mark at this area and then take a post-hole digger or shovel/spade if you do not have a digger and make a hole of 2 feet in depth. If you go a bit deeper that will be fine, however, be sure that enough of your post will be left to connect to your tree house structure.

2.You may now pour the gravel base into the hole; this should take up no more than 3-4 inches of the hole. Place your 4 by 4 post into the newly filled hole and utilize a post level to ensure the post is perfectly vertical. After doing this secure your post by clamping it to the frame board, this will prevent it from swaying.

3.To secure your post some more you will now have to add your concrete mixture into the post hole. Place a bit of water on top of the mixture to stop air bubbles from forming. Your post will be sound after it has dried completely. Repeat this procedure for the other two posts.

4.Put up the other two frame boards to finish your base structure. Place a few galvanized screws into the corners to ensure that they are secured sufficiently.

5.Drill your posts and frames and then put in the carriage bolts securely. Install your washer and nut and then re-enforce the two with a normal socket wrench to prevent shifting. You will need to cut the tops of the posts so that they will be symmetrically in line with the top of the frame. You may use your jigsaw to get a better cut. You may use a level to ensure that your cuts are level on top.

6.Build your ladder using your two by fours. Cut them to suit the area, creating both rails and rungs. Nail them or screw them in place based on the surface and your own preference.

7.Now you are ready to lay your planks at the top of your base structure. Make sure you leave spaces in between each piece of lumber. Nail them down properly.

8.Then build your wall frames utilizing four by fours and wall studs. Place the frames around your platform and screw them securely in place.

9.Utilize a few pickets around your wall frame to giveadditional stability to your structure. Hold these in place using screws and a nail gun.

10.Your tree house is after all that ready to be painted and decorated as you like.


Before construction examine the tree properly. Have an expert look at it to ensure there is no deterioration that you may have missed. The tree has to be healthy and able to support the bulk of your tree house.

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June 21st, 2010 at 12:58 am

How to Install a Chain Link Fence?

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A chain link fence is a good way of creating boundaries around an location like your yard while still keeping the space open and being able to see all around. If you are looking for something to provide seclusion then a chain link fence is maybe not the best option for you unless you are going to plant hedging along the fence. However, by itself a chain link fence is very poor for seclusion as it is so open.

Installing a chain link fence may be quite costly if you get a professional to do it but with a little assistance it is something that you can do on your own. Here are a couple tips to help you install a chain link fence of your own.

How To Install A Chain Link Fence

Required Tools


Post hole digger

Carpenter’s level

Strong string and stakes

Required Materials


Top rails

Terminal Posts

Line posts


Tension bars

Tension bands

Terminal post caps

Loop caps

Brace bands

Carriage bolts

Wire ties


As with all other home improvement projects, the first thing when you install a chain link fence is to check if you require any building and zoning permits before you install your fence. As soon as this is worked out you may proceed. Use string and stakes to mark out the area where the fence will run. Locate your underground utilities and stake out the location they are in so you do not interfere with them.

Use the post hole digger to dig holes 8-10 inches wide with a flat bottom and not a rounded one, in other words the posts have to rest level in the hole. Plant your terminal posts first (corner, end and gate posts) and use the cement to keep them in position. Use the level to make sure that the posts are straight and level.

Then, dig holes for the line posts no more than 10 feet apart, between the terminal posts, 4 inches lower than the terminal posts and cement them into position also; make sure they are also straight.

Now slide the tension and brace bands over each terminal post and place a post cap on the top. Place loop caps on the top of each line post and run the top rail through the loop caps. Use carriage bolts to attach the top rail to the brace band. Join the top rails together right around the area.

Next unroll the chain link material on the ground along the fence line and slip a tension bar through the last link on the fencing. Place the fencing against the posts and fix the tension bar to the terminal post with the tension bands and carriage bolts. Use the wire ties to attach areas of the fencing to the top rail and keep it from sagging.


Terminal posts ought to be 2 inches higher than the fencing material whereas line posts should be 2 inches lower than the fencing material.

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June 21st, 2010 at 12:48 am

How to Build a Shed?

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How to build a shed

A shed is a wonderful way to expand the storage space of any home. There are several different types of sheds, some are prefabricated and will merely to be set up and installed using the directions of the design. However, for more skilful and ambitious individuals, building a shed from scratch may be all the better. It is a fairly simple activity for a person with satisfactory carpentry experience to do and may literally take only a day to complete. The timeneeded will undoubtedly be reduced if the assistance of an additional person is utilized. A regular shed will not necessitate an elaborate design, nonetheless you should consider precise details before beginning this project. These should be inclusive of the types of materials you wish to utilize and the overall base structure of the shed, i.e. whether it will actually be held in place with foundation or constructed to be mobile. If constructed competently your shed will not simply be perfect for storage but an adorable addition to your existing outdoor area.

How To Build A Shed

Required Tools


Saw which should be circular or crosscut.

Framing square.

Screw driver


Line and Level

Measuring Tape


Required Materials

Treated lumber in a number of cuts: 2x4s, 4x4s, 2x8s (and additional sizes for the joists, beams, rafters and skids.)

Treated plywood may be optional depending on the design.

Cable tie downs and wooden skids (for mobile sheds)

Concrete/Compactable gravel (for foundation)

Roofing material: This will depend on the style you choose, it may be shingles made from wood or fibre glass, aluminium sheeting, clay tiles, etc. In addition wood sheeting for base of the roof structure and a few metal pieces for support.






Wood glue (optional).


Wall Studs

Cladding Boards


1.To begin you will need to make the foundation. The foundation of course will depend on the kind of shed you have decided to construct. For a shed that will be firmly placed on the ground you will have to use your concrete or compactable gravel at this point. Mix the concrete with a shovel and pour it over the space you have alloted for building your shed. For the compactable gravel, prepare and then layout to fill the complete area as you would with the concrete. For a shed that will use no foundation you will begin by positioning your skids in place with hammer and nails.

2.Create your flooring with the lumber you have bought for this purpose. If you were utilizing a concrete base it is actually possible to tile the floor for more posh designs or leave it with only the concrete base as a kind of flooring, this may be made more becoming with paint or any other way of adding colour to the concrete. For wood flooring you will build the frame of the flooring with pieces of wood spaced at a specific distance apart in accordance with your design, secure these in position with your hammer and nails. Put the plywood over this floor frame utilizing a drill and screw or hammer and nails depending on the method of your design.

3.Create your wall frames. You will need to measure these properly using your line and level, measuring tape and framing square. Attempt to be as methodical as you are able to make certain that the structure will be sturdy. Cut the sections of lumber with a saw or power saw. You will first be required to erect the wall studs and nail them in. You may position them at 2 feet apart. This should allow greater ease of putting in the 4 foot cladding boards that will be used in building of the walls. Once the structure is erected you may go ahead and put up the wall frames, an assistant would make this part of the process easier. You should drill these pieces in place securely so that they will not fall apart as soon as you start using your shed. Nail the corner studs in place thereby finishing your wall.

4.Now you need to construct your roof. This will begin by utilizing your biggest piece of lumber to create a single roof beam which will be placed above two supporting structures. You can then designate pieces for the end rafters, which should give you four at the rear and front positions. You will then cut smaller pieces to make smaller rafters to complete the foundation of your roof structure. Ensure that you use your level at this point for improved accuracy. You can then install your ply-board above the now finished base structure. Once this has been nailed in you can then add your cover over roofing material to complete the job. You may want to consider priming your roof with paint or some other form of water proofing material before putting on the last layer of roofing material.

5.You can then install your doors and windows by cutting out spaces for them and erecting them with your, hammer, wood glue and hinges. You may probably only need one door and quite likely no more than two windows depending on the design.

6.You can now paint your shed and install a couple of shelves and cabinets for storage.

Tips and Warnings

Ensure the materials you choose are long-lasting and will not be tarnished once they are exposed to the elements.

When working with power tools be certain that you are not near any sources of water to avoid electrical shock, this is particularly crucial if you are working within rainy periods.

To aid the design phase think about utilizing plans that may be found at hardware stores or even via the internet to make construction a lot easier.

Ensure you have meticulously planned your construction requirements, i.e. make sure you have obtained all the essential materials and tools before you start building your shed. Buy extra to avoid any hindrances that may come about because of inadequate materials. Some stores may enable you to return the materials within a specified time, thus reducing the possibility for wastage.

If you may be running electricity into your shed, speak to an electrician to avoid any foreseeable post-construction electrical issues.

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June 21st, 2010 at 12:47 am

How to Install a Steel Door And Frame?

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The function of a door is to permit entry and exit into an area still it should also provide protection from the elements when it is closed. Steel doors are a good method of providing security from intruders and fires. As well you will not need to worry about it rotting or being attacked by insects. Here is how to install a steel door by yourself.

How To Install A Steel Door And Frame

Required Tools

Pry bar

Drill and bit set


Screw driver

Required Materials

Steel frame and door

2 inch screws


Wall board

Wall board tape


2×4 stock

Plaster skim coating

Metal studs


If you are changing out an existing door, the first step is to take out the existing molding. Use the pry bar to remove the molding from the wall until all the molding right around is removed. Use the screw driver and screw out the hinge pins and take out the hinges and the door; use the drill or pry bar to take out the door frame, sills and jams. Of course if there was no door in the doorway, there is no need for this step.

Next comes the framing of the wall; make sure the wall around the door is structural and put the frame in position. Nail a pair of 2×4 stocks together and put them inside the wall as a brace. Remove the studs on either side of the steel door frame and replace them with the metal ones and then screw the studs straight into the existing sill using the screws. Do the same to the header wall frame.

For the placing of the new steel door you will require the help of another person. With the help of your companion put the door in front of the opening and then tilt it up and into position. Level the door with the shims and fit it into position; the steel door and frame may come with interior supports to keep the door straight and square.

Using the shims place the door in position between the jambs and level it by adjusting the shims on either side. Use the 2-inch screws to screw the lockset side of the frame to the metal stud, just screwing the screws in about halfway and then screw in the hinge side of the frame also halfway. Adjust the shims to ensure the door is still level and plumb and opens properly and then tighten the screws. When the door is firmly in position remove the 2×4 frame braces.

You are almost done with your task to install a steel door and frame; all that remains is to patch the wall around the door where needed and take out the old wallboards and nail the new wallboard in position against the door frame. Plaster and tape the boards and you are done.


The level and plumb readings might vary a little when you screw the door and frame into the metal studs therefore look out for this and make alterations as necessary as you go along.

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June 21st, 2010 at 12:34 am